North Albania, Kosovo & Macedonia Tour

Albania’s chaotic capital is undergoing a mini-revolution, as decrepit Communist-era buildings and pre-War Italian villas are torn down, sometimes seemingly overnight, to be replaced with huge, modern tower blocks. Whether this is a good thing or not is a matter of personal taste – the government’s plan seems to be to turn it into a Balkan version of Singapore. Amid the construction/destruction you’ll find a friendly and fascinating city, with great bars and nightlife and without doubt the best food in the entire Balkan region. Be sure to visit the House of Leaves museum, which explores the role of the feared Sigurimi secret police under the dictatorship, and the “secret” nuclear bunker built with Chinese cash and expertise in the 1970s – Bunk’Art.   

The UNESCO World Heritage City of Ohrid is a beautiful spot - we generally recommend you stay two nights to enjoy a full day here. It's certainly a place you might prefer to explore with a local guide (and local they must be - Macedonian tourism regulations prohibit foreigners from guiding in the country). If you come in summertime you'll be able to swim, though personally we prefer to visit in spring or autumn, just to escape the crowds and congestion. 

Prizren is one of our favourite Balkan cities, with a lots of history and a great atmosphere. In Ottoman days it was a major trade hub, and retains a Turkish feel - don't be surprised to hear Turkish being spoken as you wander its narrow alleyways. Be sure to make the (steep) walk up to the fortress for sundown, to hear the call-to-prayer echo over the rooftops, and to pay a visit to the impressive mosque. Be aware, although for most of the year Prizren has a great bar scene and decent nightlife, during Ramadam most places go dry. 

This mixed Muslim and Catholic town has a unique charm, and makes a perfect overnight stop if you're visiting nearaby Visoki Decani monastery. After the evening call-to-prayer the bars of the bazaar fill up with beautiful young people, particularly in the summer months when the Kosovar diaspora returns to reconnect with family. Gjakova suffered hugely during the conflict of the late 1990s, so we do recommend arranging a local guide to show you around and bring its tragic recent history to life. 

The major city of northern Albania has a long and storied history, though sadly after numerous conflicts and the arguably even more damaging Communist years, little remains of the old Ottoman city. What it does have, though, is a charming Italianate centre and the impressive ruins of Rozafa Castle, which in 1478 was beseiged by Sultan Mehmet II (Conquerer of Constantinople) - if he had succeeded in taking Shkodër, his next target would have been Rome. If you're visiting the Accursed Mountains, then Shkodër is the perfect overnight stop to break the journey. 

A new asphalt road now connects Theth to the outside world, which is great for the many guesthouses but has transformed the village - please don't expect it to be the isolated rural idyll that many out-of-date websites present it as. We think it's still worth including on any tour of northern Albania, though, thanks to the extraordinary scenery. However, if you are focused on hiking and don't like crowds, you might prefer to stay instead at the villages of Vermosh and Lepushë to the north.  

If you’re travelling from Montenegro to Tirana (or vice-versa), then you should break the journey in the village of Fishtë, more specifically at the acclaimed restaurant-with-rooms Mrizi i Zanave. Brothers Altin and Anton Prenga have created something very special here – a charming agrotourism built around the Italian Slow Food philosophy. Almost everything you see on your plate will have been sourced from neighbouring farms, or grown on-site. In 2020 they even opened their own small “factory”, producing cheeses, dried meats and preserves, which was followed in short order by an impressive winery. Mrizi has an international reputation now, and has only eight rooms, so early booking is recommended.