Albanian Family Self Drive Tour

Most people associate Lake Ohrid with North Macedonia and the eponymous UNESCO City. But if you want a less touristic experience, the Albanian shore is the place to go. The city of Pogradec on the lake’s southwestern corner is all very well, but we much prefer the sleepy little village of Lin (secretly we want to live there). There is an extremely simple hotel, but better to stay in one of the friendly B&Bs on the waterfront. You can swim from the gardens if you like, or walk 20 minutes to the other side of the Lin peninsula for complete privacy. 

Without a doubt, Korça is our favourite Albanian city. It may not have the UNESCO prestige of Berat or Gjirokastra, but it’s much more energetic and competes with them for charm and architectural interest. Its cobbled streets are endlessly diverting, and the Museum of Medieval Art has some quite extraordinary icons by the famous Onufri. In the evening the city comes alive - be sure to head to the recently restored bazaar to eat and people-watch, and later on we’d stroll down Boulevard Republika to one of the extremely chichi bars.   

The mountain range that separates Albania from Greece is beautiful and very, very wild in comparison with the much-visited Albanian Alps to the north. The easiest way to access them is from Albania's highest "city", Ersekë (a small town, really), which sits at 1,050m. In days gone by Ersekë was often cut off by snow in winter, but a new road means it stays connected these days. You'll sleep at a very simple and friendly hotel owned by Lula, who is renowned across the region for her knowledge of local medicinal herbs. From here you'll make a day hike up into the mountains, and take an (organic) lunch at a traditional house, returning to the hotel by around 18.00. After a beer or two, you might like to sample one of Lula's herb rakis (she has one for just about every ailment). 

The drive from Korça to Gjirokastra is far too long for one day, so we always recommend breaking the journey. If you need a hotel then Përmet is the obvious choice. But if you enjoy village guesthouses, there are few better in Albania than Traditional Guesthouse Përmet, which you'll actually find in the village of Bual, about a 20-minute drive (on a dirt road) from Përmet itself. This extraordinary old stone building was used as a headquarters by the Italian Army in both World Wars, and has wonderful views across the Vjosa valley. Expect one of the best home-cooked meals of your tour here, too - which you can wash down with the local raki, for which Përmet is famed. 

A magical two-night stop for lovers of nature. You’ll stay at a small guesthouse with just three rooms hidden away in the mountains north of Këlcyrë. The young owner, Elona, left the bustle of Tirana about eight years ago to return to her home village, and has created a charming rural idyll with very simple family friendly rooms. You’ll be able to make a guided hike, and perhaps enjoy some wild swimming, too. Elona’s mother is in charge of the kitchen, and loves giving cookery demonstrations for anyone who is interested to learn more about traditional Albanian dishes. This is about as far from mass-tourism as you can get. 

The “City of a Thousand Windows” is a must-visit on any south Albania tour. Berat was an important strategic hub well before the Roman era, and its imposing Citadel has been inhabited continuously for at least 2,500 years. Berat owes its UNESCO World Heritage status to its three surviving historic neighbourhoods, Mangalemi, Gorica and Kalaja (castle). We recommend it for a one-night stay, which gives you plenty of time to explore its cobbled alleyways and take in the views from Kalaja.   

Until 2021, the village of Nivica had no asphalt road connections, and accordingly no entries in guidebooks. The asphalt has arrived now, but it's going to take a year or two for the guidebooks to be updated to include what is one of Albania's most enticing destinations. Undoubtedly the place to stay is Camp Nivica - six luxurious safari-style tents (with private en suite WC/shower) perched right on the edge of the huge Nivica Canyon system. The views are incredible, and the hospitality offered by Astrid, the camp's Swedish owner, is faultless. The camp has a two-night minimum stay policy, meaning you have a full day to hike down into the canyon, enjoy the extraordinary scenery, and generally disconnect from "civilisation". In 2022 the camp was featured in Condé Nast Traveller's feature on Albania - and deservedly so. 

Zagoria is one of Albania's hidden delights, but isn't much visited due to a lack of ashphalt roads. It is possible to drive in a road car up to the fabulous Camping Çajupi, though, where you can stay in a simple wooden hut built by an enterprising local shepherd family. You're well away from any villages here, isolated on a high plateau that until a few years ago was used strictly for grazing. Expect a spectacular night sky, and in the morning you can make a (sometimes tricky) hike along the mountain ridge to take in the views. 

Albania’s second UNESCO World Heritage City is like something from a fairytale, with crumbling old stone mansions clinging to the side of a mountain, in the shade of a huge and frankly creepy fortress. No, Gjirokastra doesn’t lack for either history or atmosphere. We think it offers so much interest, in fact, that we recommend it as a two-night stay. Be sure to visit one of the better-preserved houses (not the ethnographic museum; it’s a fake), the Cold War Tunnels and of course the castle. It’s even worth paying a couple of euros extra to visit the castle’s unreformed military museum, which is a real throwback to the Communist era. 

The Albanian Riviera has a very short season - in July and August it is rammed with tourists; in the spring and autumn shoulder seasons, almost empty. At either time of year our favourite place to stay is the village of Qeparo, about 20 minutes' drive south of Himarë. Even in high summer it retains a chilled-out vibe in comparison with the party spots of Saranda and Dhërmi, and is the perfect spot to relax for a few days. If you get the chance, drive up to Old Qeparo, the most picturesque village of the Albanian Riviera (phone ahead if you want to take lunch in the tiny village shop / taverna).

OK, Kruja is touristy! But we don't always think that's a bad thing. In fact, we think Kruja is the perfect spot to end any tour of Albania. For starters, it's just half an hour from Rinas Airport. Secondly, its cute little bazaar provides the best shopping opportunity in Albania, and is the place to pick up detritus from the Communist and Ottoman eras (always exit via the gift shop…). If you've the energy, you can visit the frankly weird museum dedicated to Albania's national hero, Skanderbeg, or the surprisingly good ethnographic museum. But most people we find prefer to do a spot of shopping then enjoy a relaxing meal, with epic views to the plains below.