South Albania in Six Days

Albania’s chaotic capital is undergoing a mini-revolution, as decrepit Communist-era buildings and pre-War Italian villas are torn down, sometimes seemingly overnight, to be replaced with huge, modern tower blocks. Whether this is a good thing or not is a matter of personal taste - the government's plan seems to be to turn it into a Balkan version of Singapore. Amid the construction/destruction you'll find a friendly and fascinating city, with great bars and nightlife and without doubt the best food in the entire Balkan region. Be sure to visit the House of Leaves museum, which explores the role of the feared Sigurimi secret police under the dictatorship, and the "secret" nuclear bunker built with Chinese cash and expertise in the 1970s - Bunk'Art.   

The “City of a Thousand Windows” is a must-visit on any south Albania tour. Berat was an important strategic hub well before the Roman era, and its imposing Citadel has been inhabited continuously for at least 2,500 years. Berat owes its UNESCO World Heritage status to its three surviving historic neighbourhoods, Mangalemi, Gorica and Kalaja (castle). We recommend it for a one-night stay, which gives you plenty of time to explore its cobbled alleyways and take in the views from Kalaja.   

The drive from Korça to Gjirokastra is far too long for one day, so we always recommend breaking the journey. If you need a hotel then Përmet is the obvious choice. But if you enjoy village guesthouses, there are few better in Albania than Traditional Guesthouse Përmet, which you'll actually find in the village of Bual, about a 20-minute drive (on a dirt road) from Përmet itself. This extraordinary old stone building was used as a headquarters by the Italian Army in both World Wars, and has wonderful views across the Vjosa valley. Expect one of the best home-cooked meals of your tour here, too - which you can wash down with the local raki, for which Përmet is famed. 

Albania’s second UNESCO World Heritage City is like something from a fairytale, with crumbling old stone mansions clinging to the side of a mountain, in the shade of a huge and frankly creepy fortress. No, Gjirokastra doesn’t lack for either history or atmosphere. We think it offers so much interest, in fact, that we recommend it as a two-night stay. Be sure to visit one of the better-preserved houses (not the ethnographic museum; it’s a fake), the Cold War Tunnels and of course the castle. It’s even worth paying a couple of euros extra to visit the castle’s unreformed military museum, which is a real throwback to the Communist era. 

Until 2021, the village of Nivica had no asphalt road connections, and as such was missed by all the guidebook writers. Now it has not one but three good roads, and will soon be one of Albania’s key tourism destinations. For now, it remains mostly off-the-radar for international travellers, who have yet to learn about its huge canyon system and completely jaw-dropping scenery. You’ll stay at a charming (and very simple) little guesthouse perched right on the edge of the canyon, and if you’re feeling adventurous can make the steep hike down to the river below. In the evening your hosts, Petrit and Ndyshë, will prepare a delicious home-cooked feast using local ingredients, which you can wash down with a glass or two of Petrit’s raki…