We’ve been taking travellers to Nivica for over 7 years now (before it was on the tourism map) and until 2021 always stayed at the wonderful Guesthouse on the Canyon (the lovely owners Petrit and Ndyshë kind of had a monopoly). In 2021 an adventurous Swede, Astrid, created a completely unique experience on the opposite side of the canyon from the village of Nivica. You’ll sleep in luxury safari tents imported from South Africa (Astrid has a background in running safaris). Each tent has its own bathroom, with hot running water, and a killer view across the incredible Nivica Canyon. Camp Nivica is completely unlike anything else in Albania, and everyone we’ve taken there – including a writer for Condé Nast Traveller magazine – has been completely blown away. Astrid quite rightly operates a 2-night minimum stay policy, so you’ll have a full day to explore the area, including a guided hike down into the canyon. For the past few years a pair of Egyptian vultures have summered here, so don’t be surprised to see them soaring overhead. 

* Camp Nivica is full-board, so on this stay you will have 2 breakfasts, 1 lunch, 2 evening meals and complimentary soft drinks, beer, wine and raki. 

The “City of a Thousand Windows” is a must-visit on any south Albania tour. Berat was an important strategic hub well before the Roman era, and its imposing Citadel has been inhabited continuously for at least 2,500 years. Berat owes its UNESCO World Heritage status to its three surviving historic neighbourhoods, Mangalemi, Gorica and Kalaja (castle). We recommend it for a one-night stay, which gives you plenty of time to explore its cobbled alleyways and take in the views from Kalaja.   

Albania’s second UNESCO World Heritage City is like something from a fairytale, with crumbling old stone mansions clinging to the side of a mountain, in the shade of a huge and frankly creepy fortress. No, Gjirokastra doesn’t lack for either history or atmosphere. We think it offers so much interest, in fact, that we recommend it as a two-night stay. Be sure to visit one of the better-preserved houses (not the ethnographic museum; it’s a fake), the Cold War Tunnels and of course the castle. It’s even worth paying a couple of euros extra to visit the castle’s unreformed military museum, which is a real throwback to the Communist era. 

Please don’t expect a wild party when you go to Përmet. It’s perhaps the sleepiest “city” in Albania (famously, it recorded a grand total of zero crimes in 2015). Do expect a unique experience, though. Përmet seems to be stuck in 1973, right down to the Mercedes 240s that are still in use as daily transport. Lately it’s becoming a hub for adventure tourism, with rafting, hiking and horse riding all available close by. You might prefer to just sit in the main square with a raki and people-watch, before eating at one of its excellent traditional restaurants. 

The Albanian Riviera (thankfully) has a very short season. In July and August it is jam-packed, and honestly not our favourite place to be. Go in Spring or Autumn, however, and it's heavenly, with empty beaches and charming laidback vibe*. Driving the coast road from Vlorë to Saranda is an experience in itself, though we don't recommend staying in either city unless you have a passion for cheap concrete apartment blocks. We think you'll have a better experience at one of the villages in-between, and that's where we'll put you unless you insist otherwise.  

* Really laidback - in the second half of October most hotels and restaurants will be closed.